Questions about your order status if you already placed it ("When did it ship?"):
Shipping Department, phone (913) 269-0976

Other General Info and Any Questions IF YOU BOUGHT X-PLANE HERE AT WWW.X-PLANE.COM:
Laminar Research Customer Service, phone (913) 269-0976 info@X-Plane.com

Other General Info and Any Questions IF YOU BOUGHT X-PLANE ANYWHERE BUT X-PLANE.COM:
Graphics Simulations Customer Service, phone (972) 386-7575 x 106

Email Tech support: info@X-Plane.com

Phone Tech Support: 913-269-0976

(Note: be sure you get the latest version of X-Plane before you report any problems!)

We have a new manual if you want that now: X-Plane Manual, New as of August 24, 2007

Report bugs: http://dev.x-plane.com/support/bugreport.html

Laminar Research
1005 Brentwood Court
Columbia, SC, 29206
(803) 738-1156

I BET YOU DO NOT WANT TO WAIT FOR A RETURN EMAIL OR PHONE CALL IF TECH SUPPORT IS NOT THERE RIGHT NOW. I BET YOU WANT AN ANSWER RIGHT =>NOW<=. NO PROBLEM: LOOK AT THE LITTLE ESSAYS I WROTE BELOW THAT COVER LIKE MAYBE 80% OF THE QUESTIONS I GET, WHICH ARE:

1: X-Plane does not work on my Windows machine.. why? (You need to install drivers for your video card... here's how)
2: X-Plane can not find a file.. why? (You need to install X-Plane properly... here's how)
3: The autopilot doesn't work! (You just don't know how to use it... here's how)
4: X-Plane does not run fast on my older computer! (Here are some tips on making X-Plane run faster, useful for older hardware)

austin

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X-PLANE DOES NOT WORK ON A WINDOWS MACHINE, OR CRASHES ON EXIT FROM THE SIM:
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This is a driver problem, assuming you have a useable operating system and video card and RAM.

What is a useable operating system and video card and RAM?
Well, you need Windows XP or greater for Windows, Mac OS X.4 or better for Mac, and you prolly know more about Linux than I do if you are using Linux.
You can't use Windows NT due to problems with Microsoft's joystick manipulation in Windows NT.
You need at least 1 gig of RAM, and at least 32 or so meg o VRAM on your video card.
You need an acceptable 3-D card. That would be one that supports acceleration of OpenGL.. that would be any modern ATI or NVIDIA video card, but NOT an integrated Intel graphics chip, which are, as of this writing, too cheap and weak to run X-Plane.

So, for Windows, assuming you have Windows XP or better and a 3-D accelerator card capable of running OpenGL, and you get some sort of crash when you try to run X-Plane (or EXIT X-Plane!) then you need to correctly install the latest drivers for your video card.

How?
Well, FIRST, go to the web page of your video card manufacturer and download the latest drivers, being sure that they include OPENGL drivers... they will come in an executable that you will double-click on to activate. Download the exe file and double-click on it to blow it up into a folder... REMEMBER WHERE YOU EXTRACT THE FOLDER TO! CREATE A FOLDER CALLED 'DRIVERS' OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT AND EXTRACT THE FILES TO THAT FOLDER! PEOPLE EXTRACT FILES ALL THE TIME AND EXPECT EVERYTHING TO MAGICALLY WORK OUT LATER DESPITE THE FACT THAT THEY NEVER NOTICE WHERE THEY ARE EXTRACTING THE FILES, THUS RUINING ANY CHANCE OF FINDING THEM LATER!
Anyway, after downloading and extracting and remembering where you extracted the files to, go to your MY COMPUTER icon.
Go to the SYSTEM icon inside of that.
Go to the DEVICE MANAGER tab inside of that.
Go to the video adapters and click on it to expand it.
Now REMOVE the adapters inside there by highlighting them and hitting the REMOVE button. This will remove your old drivers. (you want to do this before installing new ones)
Now restart the machine.
IF THE MACHINE SAYS IT DETECTS NEW HARDWARE AND ALLOWS YOU TO SELECT THE LOCATION OF THE NEW DRIVERS, THEN SELECT THE LOCATION OF THE NEW DRIVERS YOURSELF BY SELECTING THE FOLDER YOU JUST EXTRACTED THE DRIVERS TO!
You will have to re-start and you should be in business!

NOTE: IF THERE IS A FILE CALLED SETUP.EXE OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT IN THE DRIVERS FOLDER, THEN YOU CAN RUN THAT FILE AND IT MAY INSTALL DRIVERS FOR YOU.

If you think you messed up and want to install the new drivers again, then go back to the device manager like you did to remove the drivers (open up the video adapter section again) but this time click "update driver" or similar, and then when asked by windows to choose a location, select the folder that you extracted all the drivers into... this will cause windows to actually use the new drivers that you have extracted. Getting the latest drivers this way will hopefully get you in business... getting the latest driver correctly installed is frequently needed by X-Plane, and is a common necessity in Microsoft Windows. PS: If your card does not support openGL, then I HIGHLY recommend any Nvidia GeForce card (www.Nvidia.com).

Now, if your video card manufacturer gives you instructions that are different than mine, then just follow their instructions.

Sometimes people ignore my advice to remove the OLD drivers before installing new ones. Then, X-Plane crashes when they try to EXIT X-Plane! You have to remember to follow the instructions I gave above to REMOVE the OLD drivers!

Now, if you get a bit confused as to exactly what drivers are installed, and are not sure if you have multiple partial installations, then go here: http://www.btinternet.com/~bobruck/download.html This program seems to help you sort those types of issues out pretty well.

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HOW DO I UPDATE? (and install)
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You can NOT just copy scenery over from one version of X-Plane to another to upgrade your copy of X-Plane...
That does NOT work because that does not include all the needed graphics resources for that scenery!

So, instead, you need to install from the dvd and then update with the net.
To do this, just put the dvd in the drive and use the MY COMPUTER option to go to your DVD and simply run the installer by double-clicking on the installer that
is right for your computer (mac, windows, or linux).
Do this for each dvd, X-Plane and scenery.

ALWAYS CHECK THE DESTINATION FIELD IN THE LOWER-LEFT OF THE SCREEN TO BE SURE THAT THE DESTINATION IS THE SAME FOR ALL COPIES OF X-PLANE.

Once that is done, and you have the total install (scenery, everything) then grab the latest installer from www.x-plane.com in the DEMO-UPDATE section and run it.
select the copy of X-Plane that you just installed from the dvd as your 'destination' to upgrade that copy of x-plane to the latest with the net updater.

Do that and you will be flying the latest version.

This assumes, of course, that you are not running X-Plane from a shortcut. If you are, then your shortcut might be going to the older copy of X-Plane, which of course would keep you from flying the latest version if you have an older version lying around somewhere on your drive.

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AUTOPILOT HOW-TO
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One of the most-often asked questions in X-Plane is the same as one of the most often-asked questions in real planes: HOW DO I WORK THE AUTOPILOT? This is no surprise, as pilots don't know how to work their own autopilots all the time. I have even been on AIRLINER where the plane was jerking abruptly left and light for 5 minutes or so as the flight crew was clearly trying to figure out how to properly program and engage their autopilot.

Well, for X-Plane, here are the autopilot functions available: (all of these can be chosen for your panel in the Panel-Editor in Plane-Maker... they are all in the "autopilot" instrument folder). Each of these is a mode you can put your plane in simply by hitting that button on the panel with the mouse.

WLV: WING-LEVELER: This will simply hold the wings level while you figure out what to do next.
HDG: HEADING HOLD. This will simply follow the heading bug on the HSI or Direction Gyro.
LOC: Localizer. This will fly a VOR or ILS radial, or to a GPS destination... AND THE GPS MAY BE PROGRAMMED BY THE FMS (explained soon).
HOLD: This will hold the current or pre-selected ALTITUDE by pitching the nose up or down.
V/S: This will hold a constant VERTICAL SPEED by pitching the aircraft nose up or down.
SPD: This will hold the pre-selected AIRSPEED by pitching the nose up or down. (leaving throttle alone)
FLCH: (Flight-Level Change)This will hold the pre-selected AIRSPEED by pitching the nose up or down. (adding or taking away power automatically) This is commonly used to change altitude in Airliners by simply letting the pilot add or take away power, while the airplane pitches the nose to hold the most efficient AIRspeed. If the pilot adds power, the plane climbs. If he takes it away, the plane descends. SPD and FLCH are currently ALMOST identical functions in X-Plane: They both pitch the nose up or down to maintain a desired aircraft speed, so adding or taking away power results in climbs or descents. The difference is, if you HAVE auto-throttle on the airplane, FLCH will automatically add or take away power for you to start the climb or descent. SPD will NOT.
PTCH: Pitch-Sync: Use this to hold the plane's nose at a constant pitch attitude. Commonly used to just hold the nose somewhere until the pilot decides what to do next.
G/S: Glideslope: This will fly the glideslope portion of the ILS.
VNAV: Vertical Navigation: This will fly automatically load altitudes from the FMS (Flight Management System) into the autopilot for you, to follow route altitudes. (explained soon).
BC: Every ILS on the planet has a LITTLE-KNOWN SECOND LOCALIZER THAT GOES IN THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION AS THE INBOUND LOCALIZER. THIS IS USED FOR THE MISSED APPROACH, ALLOWING YOU TO CONTINUE FLYING ALONG THE EXTENDED CENTERLINE OF THE RUNWAY, EVEN AFTER PASSING OVER AND BEYOND THE RUNWAY. To save money, some airports will NOT bother to install a new ILS at the airport to land on the same runway going the other direction, but instead let you fly this second localizer BACKWARDS to come into the runway from the opposite direction of the regular ILS! This is called a BACK COURSE ILS. Using the SAME ILS in BOTH directions has it's advantage (it's cheaper) but a drawback: The needle deflection on your instruments is BACKWARDS when going the WRONG WAY ON THE ILS! Hit the BC (back course) autopilot button if you are doing this. It causes the autopilot to realize that the needle deflection is BACKWARDS, and still fly the approach.
(Note: HSI's do NOT reverse the visible needle deflection in the back-course because you turn the housing that the deflection needle is mounted on around 180 degrees to fly the opposite direction... thus reversing the reversal!) (NOTE: The glide-slope is NOT available on the back-course, so you have to use the localizer part of the procedure only)

OK, now you know what the various options are... how do you use them?

Well, first of all, you need to turn the autopilot ON!
The autopilot power is disguised as a 'Flight Director Mode' switch, which has modes OFF, FDIR, AUTO.
What this means is:
If the Flight Director is OFF, then NOTHING will happen when you try to use the autopilot.
If the Flight Director is ON, then the autopilot will not physically move the airplane controls, but it will move little target wings on your artificial horizon that you can try to mimic as you fly. If you do this, then you will be following the guidance that the autopilot is giving you, even though you are the one actually flying. The flight director is, at that point, following whatever autopilot modes you have selected, and you are following the flight director as you fly the plane.
If the Flight Director is set to AUTO, then the autopilot servos will actually fly the airplane according to the autopilot mode you have selected.

In other words, turning the Flight Director ON turns on the BRAINS of the autopilot, displaying the commands from the modes above on the horizon as some little magenta wings you can follow. Turning the Flight Director to AUTO turns on the SERVOS of the autopilot, so the plane follows the little magenta wings FOR you, without you touching the stick.

In other words, if you have a flight director switch, then make sure it is in the right mode for the type of autopilot guidance you want! (None, flight-director only, or actual servos driving the controls).

Now, when you first turn the Flight Director to ON or AUTO, the thing will automatically engage in PITCH HOLD and WING-LEVELER ROLL MODE, which will simply hold your current pitch and roll until some other mode is selected (NOTE: If you turn the system on with less than 7 degrees of bank, then the system will assume you want the wings LEVEL, and level the wings for you).

Now that you have set the flight director to the right mode, let's look at the various modes you can use to command that flight director and possibly autopilot servos!

WING-LEVELER AND PITCH SYNC:
Just hit them and they hold wings at the current bank (or wings level if you engage it with less than 7 degrees of bank) and pitch-attitude at the current pitch.

HEADING, ALTITUDE , VERTICAL SPEED, SPEED-HOLD, FLIGHT-LEVEL-CHANGE, AUTO-THROTTLE:
Just hit them and they will hold whatever values are entered into the selectors, with most values auto-set to your current speed or altitude at the moment they are hit for smooth transitions. Now, this makes perfect sense at first: Simply hit the VVI button and the autopilot will grab and hold your current VVI. Same with airspeed. Same with altitude. BUT WHAT IF YOU WANT THE PLANE TO CLIMB TO A NEW ALTITUDE YOU HAVE NOT REACHED YET? Well, at that point, you have to ask yourself: Do you want the airplane to hold a constant VERTICAL speed to that new altitude, or a constant AIRSPEED to that new altitude? Since airplanes are most efficient at some constant indicate AIRSPEED, climbing by holding a constant airspeed is usually most efficient.
Let's start with the vertical speed case though.
Let's say you are flying along at 5,000 feet and you hit ALT. That grabs your CURRENT altitude of 5,000 feet.
Now let's say you want to climb to 9,000 feet.
First, dial 9,000 into the altitude window. Note that the plane does NOT go there yet!
The NEXT step is to decide HOW you want to get to 9,000 feet!
Hit the VVI button and the plane will capture your current VVI (maybe 0) and simply dial the VVI up or down to get to 9,000 feet more or less quickly.
When you get to 9,000 feet, the autopilot will automatically DIS-ENGAGE the vertical speed mode and drop right back into altitude mode at your new altitude.
Now let's do this the way airliners do:
You are at 5,000 feet in altitude-hold, flying at a constant speed.
You dial 9,000 feet into the altitude window because you want to climb.
You hit FLCH or SPD!
This make the plane pitch the nose up or down to maintain your current indicated SPEED!
Now, simply add a dose of power if needed and the nose of the plane will raise up to keep the speed from increasing, and up you go!
When you approach 9,000 feet, the autopilot will LEAVE speed-hold mode and go into altitude-hold mode, holding 9,000 feet until further notice.

So, as you see, the speed and vertical speed modes will be held just fine... UNTIL THEY GET TO THE ALTITUDE YOU HAVE DIALED IN, A WHICH POIT THEY WILL ABANDON THAT MODE AND GRAB ALTITUDE HOLD MODE. The same thing will happen with GLIDESLOPE! If the glideslope is armed (lit up because you pushed the button!) then the autopilot will abandon your vertical mode when the glideslope engages. The same thing will happen with the LOCALIZER! If the Localizer is armed (lit up because you pushed the button!) then the autopilot will abandon your HEADING mode when the LOCALIZER engages!
This is called 'CAPTURING' the localizer or glideslope.

So, the thing to realize is that vertical speed, flight-level change, and heading mode are all modes that command the plane the moment they are engaged.
Altitude and glideslope and Localizer are ALL ARMED, and sit there in standby (armed) until one of the modes above intercepts the altitude, glideslope, localizer, or GPS course.

An exception is ALTITUDE.. .IF you hit the ALTITUDE button, you will grab your current altitude that you are at right NOW. This is NOT the way a smart pilot flies, though. A smart pilot with a good airplane and autopilot and planning will dial in the ASSIGNED ALTITUDE long BEFORE he gets there (including the INITIAL altitude BEFORE HE TAKES OFF!) and then use vertical speed or flight-level-change or even pitch sync to GET to that altitude!

So, here is how you use the system in the real plane:
-You are on the ground, short of the runway, told to maintain 3,000 feet, runway heading, cleared for take-off.
-You enter 3,000 feet into the ALTITUDE window, runway heading (say 290) into the HEADING window.
-You take off.
-In the initial climb, around maybe 500 feet, you set the flight director to AUTO. Your current pitch and roll are grabbed, holding the plane steady for you.
-You hit the HEADING button, and the plane follows the initial runway heading.
-You hit the VVI or FLCH or SPD buttons. Your current VVI or SPEED are auto-grabbed, and the plane flies the VVI or SPEED until it gets to 3,000, where it levels off.
-You are given a new heading and altitude by ATC.
-You simply dial the new heading into the window, and dial the new altitude into it's window, and then hit VVI or FLCH or SPD to let the plane zoom to the new altitude.
-You are cleared to your destination or some other fix. You enter it into your GPS, you set your HSI source to GPS (the autopilot follows the HSI!), and you hit the LOC button. The autopilot will follow the HSI needle deflection laterally as it climbs to the new altitude.

Do this, and you can get where you are going.

PITCH SYNC WITH PITCH-SYNC JOYSTICK BUTTON: You can assign a joystick button to be 'Pitch Sync', in which case the autopilot will match the autopilot settings to whatever you are doing as you fly the plane... then, when you RELEASE the pitch-sync joystick button, the autopilot will GRAB HOLD of the yoke (engage servos) and maintain the vertical speed, altitude, airspeed, or pitch that you were just flying! How does this work? Here is an example:
Let's say you are at 3,000 feet, and you are in ALTITUDE mode, the autopilot holding 3,000 feet for you. You hit the PITCH SYNC joystick button. When you do this, the autopilot servos turn the yoke loose and let you fly... you fly to 3,500 ft (autopilot still in altitude mode!) and let go of the PITCH SYNC joystick button. At that point, the autopilot will try to hold 3,500 ft, since you were in altitude mode at 3,500 feet at the moment you let go of the pitch-sync button.
Now let's say you are in VVI mode.. then the autopilot will try to maintain the vertical speed that you had at the moment you released the pitch-sync button.
Now let's say you are in SPEED or LEVEL-CHANGE mode.. then the autopilot will try to maintain the airspeed (by pitching nose up or down!) the airspeed that you had at the moment you released the pitch-sync button.
So, when you HIT the pitch-sync joystick button, the autopilot turns OFF the servos and lets you fly, but when you RELEASE the button, the servos take hold and try to maintain the speed, altitude, or vertical speed that you had at the moment you released the pitch-sync joystick button. The same applies to bank angle: If if you are in wing-level or heading mode when you hit pitch-sync, then the plane will try to maintain the bank-angle you had at the moment you released the button one you release it. (Note: if the bank angle is less than 6 degrees, then the plane will just level the wings, assuming that you want nose-level).

LOC and G/S:
These are the ones nobody can figure out, partially because the right frequencies and HSI mode must be selected to use them, and partially because they WILL NOT DO A THING until they CAPTURE the approach path they are looking for... and some OTHER MODE (any of the ones discussed above) must be engaged to do that.

So, here is how these modes work:
These modes capture an ILS or VOR or GPS course, so they must obviously be able to fly either NAV-1, NAV-2, or GPS.
But how do these know which of those 3 signals to use?
The answer is the button labelled "NAV-1 NAV-2 FMC/CDU", (with filename "but_HSI_12GPS" in the HSI folder), which is the HSI source selector.
Here is why: The AUTOPILOT will fly whatever is THE HSI IS SHOWING (if you have one), so you need to decide what you want the HSI to show: Nav-1, Nav-2, or GPS (labeled FMC/CDU, for Flight Management Computer, which gets it's signal from the GPS). Once you decide what you want the HSI to display with this button, that is what the autopilot will fly.

If you put this button to Nav-1, then the the HSI will show deflections from the Nav-1 radio, and the autopilot
will fly VOR or ILS signals from the Nav-1 radio if you hit the LOC or G/S buttons.

If you put this button to Nav-2, then the the HSI will show deflections from the Nav-2 radio, and the autopilot
will fly VOR or ILS signals from the Nav-2 radio if you hit the LOC or G/S buttons.

If you put this button to FMC/CDU, then the the HSI will show deflections from the GPS, which can be set manually or by the FMS, and the autopilot
will fly to the GPS destination if you hit the LOC button. Rememebr that if you enter destinations into the FMS,
they will automatically feed into the GPS, so the autopilot will follow them if you select LOC.

So now that you know how to send the right signal (Nav-1, Nav-2, or GPS) to the autopilot for LOC and G/S
(lateral and vertical navigation), how do you USE those modes?

Here is the answer:

LOC: Lateral navigation will immediately start going to a GPS destination once engaged.
But, it will only track a VOR radial or ILS localizer AFTER THE NEEDLE HAS COME OFF OF FULL-SCALE DEFLECTION! This means that if you have a full-scale ILS needle deflection (simply because you have not yet gotten to the localizer) the LOC mode will simply go into ARMED (yellow) mode, and NOT DO ANYTHING AT ALL WITH THE PLANE! Your current HEADING or WING-LEVEL mode (if engaged) will remain in force (or you can hand-fly) UNTIL THE LOCALIZER NEEDLE STARTS TO MOVE IN TO THE CENTER. Once that happens, the LOC will suddenly go from ARMED (yellow) to ACTIVE, and start actually flying the plane for you, dis-engaging any previous modes. Why is this? Because you will typically fly HEADING mode until you GET TO THE LOCALIZER, and as soon as the localizer needle comes in, you want the autopilot to forget about heading and start flying the localizer down to the runway. Or you simply hand-fly the plane to the localizer, with no autopilot mode on at all, and you want the autopilot to take over once the ILS needle starts to come in, indicating you are entering the localizer. Interestingly, this is much the same as the altitude modes! Just as the localizer is ARMED by hitting the LOC button, and you can do anything until the localizer arms and then takes over lateral control, the altitude is also ARMED (always, and automatically) and you can fly any vertical speed or airspeed or pitch (manually or on autopilot) until the altitude is reached, at which point the autopilot will go into altitude-hold mode.

G/S: Just like the lateral nav, the vertical nav WILL NOT DO ANYTHING UNTIL THE GLIDELSOP NEEDLE starts to move... though unlike with the localizer, the G/S mode won't do anything until the glidelsope needle goes ALL THE WAY THRU THE CENTER POSITION. Why? Because you typically have the airplane on ALTITUDE HOLD until you intercept the glideslope, at which point the plane should stop holding altitude altitude and start flying down to the runway. In other words, the G/S mode will automatically go from ARMED to ACTIVE once the plane hits the CENTER of the glideslope.

So how do you USE these systems to fly an ILS?

While still far away from the ILS, and BELOW glideslope:

->Hit the altitude ALTITUDE button to hold current ALTITUDE.

->Enter an HEADING in the HEADING window to follow until you intercept the ILS.
->Hit the HEADING button to hold it.

->Hit the LOC button. It will ARM (yellow)
->Hit the G/S button. It will ARM (yellow)

Now, as soon as you intercept the localizer:
->the LOC will go from yellow to green, abandoning the HEADING mode and fliying the localizer.

Now, as soon as you intercept the CENTER of the glideslope:
->the G/S will go from yellow to green, abandoning the ALTITUDE HOLD mode and fliying the glidelsope.

The autopilot will then track you right down to the runway, and even flare at the end, cutting power if autothrottle is engaged.

Just as in a real airplane, these things only work well if you intercept the loclalizer far away (OUTSIDE the Outer Marker) and BELOW the glideslope, intercepting the localizer at less than a 30-degree angle, and holding altitude when you intercept the glideslope. If you are above the glideslope, or crossing the localizer at a wide angle, or intercept the localizer too close in to the airport, the autopilot will not be able to manuever the airplane for landing, as I have found out many times in X-Plane, and several times in my Cirrus.

OK, you should know how to fly with the autopilot now.
Now let's see how you can fly an FMS PLAN.
A few things must happen:
-You must enter all your flight plan into the FMS
-you have to have the HSI set to GPS, NOT nav 1 or nav 2 (because remember, the autopilot will fly whatever it sees on the HSI!)
-you must have the LOC button selected ON since that button makes the autopilot follow the localizer (or whatever is on the HSI)
-the FLIGHT DIR button must be set to AUTO, so the servos are running.
-the VNAV button should be hit IF you want the FMS to also load ALTITUDES into the altitude window

Do all these things, and the plane will follow any FMS plan, assuming, of course, the plane you are flying HAS all this equipment, which of course some do not.

Now, the next question a lot of people ask is: HOW DO I USE THE FMS????????
Well, it's pretty darn easy!
Here's how:
Open of the Boeing 777 for this one... hit the INIT button on the FMS: this gets the FMS inited to receive a flight plan.
Now hit the AIRP button: this tells the FMS that you are about to go to an AIRPORT.
Now enter the ID of whatever airport you want to by hitting the keypad keys with the mouse.
Now, if you like, hit the line-select button on the left side of the FMS next to the text "FLY AT ______ FT"... and enter the altitude you want to fly at with the keypad again.
Now, if you want to do more than just fly to an airport, hit the NEXT button on the FMS and repeat the steps above for the next waypoint.
There is a back-arrow to erase mistakes, VOR, NDB, FIX, and LAT/LON buttons to enter those types of destinations, and PREV/NEXT buttons to cycle thru the various waypoints in your plan, as well as a LD and SA button load and save flight plans if you want to use them again.
Now, once you have entered the plan into the FMS, take off and set the "SOURCE" button for the HSI to "GPS" so the HSI is getting data from the GPS (not the nav-1 or nav-2 radios) and move the "FLIGHT DIR" button to "AUTO" so the autopilot servos are actually running, and hit the "LOC" autopilot button to follow the HSI lateral guidance.... which you just set to get data from the GPS, with the servos on to actively command the plane. (And, if you bothered to enter an altitude into the FMS, which is totally optional, then hit the VNAV autopilot button to track the entered altitude").
So, it is pretty easy once you just get the basics.

Now, using the autopilot is only one basic step... the next level is to use the FMS! (flight management system). To do this, a few things must happen: You must enter all your flight plan into the FMS, AND you have to have the HSI set to GPS, NOT nav 1 or nav 2 (because remember, the autopilot will fly whatever it sees on the HSI, so you must get the HSI to show you what is being generated by the GPS, so you have to set the HSI to GPS) AND you must have the LOC and VNAV buttons selected ON, AND the FLIGHT DIR button must be set to AUTO, so the flight director is NOT OFF, NOT just ON, but actualy DRIVIGN THER AUTOPILOT. Do all these things, and the plane will follow any FMS plan, assuming, of course, the plane you are flying HAS all this equipment, which of course most do not.
Now, the next question a lot of people ask is: HOW DO I USE THE FMS????????
Well, it's pretty darn easy!
Here's how:
Open of the Boeing 777 for this one... hit the INIT button on the FMS: this gets the FMS inited to receive a flight plan.
Now hit the AIRP button: this tells the FMS that you are about to go to an AIRPORT.
Now enter the ID of whatever airport you want to by hitting the keypad keys with the mouse.
Now, if you like, hit the line-select button on the left side of the FMS next to the text "FLY AT ______ FT"... and enter the altitude you want to fly at with the keypad again.
Now, if you want to do more than just fly to an airport, hit the NEXT button on the FMS and repeat the steps above for the next waypoint.
There is a back-arrow to erase mistakes, VOR, NDB, FIX, and LAT/LON buttons to enter those types of destinations, and PREV/NEXT buttons to cycle thru the various waypoints in your plan, as well as a LD and SA button load and save flight plans if you want to use them again.
Now, once you have entered the plan into the FMS, take off and set the "SOURCE" button for the HSI to "GPS" so the HSI is getting data from the GPS (not the nav-1 or nav-2 radios) and move the "FLIGHT DIR" button to "AUTO" so the autopilot servos are actually running, and hit the "LOC" autopilot button to follow the HSI lateral guidance.... which you just set to get data from the GPS, with the servos on to actively command the plane. (And, if you bothered to enter an altitude into the FMS, which is totally optional, then hit the VNAV autopilot button to track the entered altitude").

Do that and the plane will fly you anywhere.

Now, one final question:
How do you turn OFF an autopilot mode? EASY! Hit that mode button AGAIN!
Next question: What does the autopilot do when that ode is turned OFF? Easy! It reverts to the default modes it had when first turned on! Pitch and Roll hold mode!
Next question: How do you turn OFF the autopilot altogether? Easy! Hit the "!" key or assign a joystick button to turn it off in the "Joystick" screen in X-Plane.

So, it is pretty easy once you just get the basics.

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HOW DO I MAKE MY SIM RUN FASTER?
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Two of the emails I often get are as follows:

"WOW! X-Plane is so fast! I get 100 fps on my computer! Amazing! This is so much smoother than other flight sims!"
and
"WOW! X-Plane is so slow on my computer! What should I do?"

Why does this happen?
Well, of course many people today run 500 mhz Pentiums with 128 meg of RAM and 8 meg of VRAM, while others run dual-processor 3,000 mhz machines with 256 meg of VRAM and a GIG of RAM... and there is MORE than a 6x difference between them in speed, since the RAM speed, motherboard speed, video card speed, and many other things cause performance differences in the computer.

Now, here is what so many people seem to NOT know, even though it is fundamental to understanding computer performance:

ONE limit is how much RAM you have
the other limit is how much CPU-speed you have

Which of these matters to you? Well, coming up short in EITHER category will mess you up.

The TEXTURE RESOLUTION AND SCREEN RESOLUTION require video RAM, so if you do not have enough video ram on your video card to handle x-plane's texture resolution and screen resolution, then you are GOING TO RU SUPER-SLOW, NO MATTER HOW MUCH CPU YOU HAVE.

Conversely, if you have all the RAM in the world and are running at a low-texture-res and low-screen-res then you will not have any RAM problems, but if your computer CPU is slow or your video card speed is low, then you will of course get low performance.

So, given whatever machine YOU have, how can you get the most from X-Plane?

First the basics: YOU HAVE TO BE ABLE TO TELL HOW FAST X-PLANE IS RUNNING. Run X-Plane and go to the SETTINGS menu, then DATA INPUT & OUTPUT window, and check the right-hand box in front of "FRAME-RATE, TIME RATIO", thus sending the frame-rate to the screen in flight. Now you can see how fast you are running, in the "freq /sec" output on the far left.. this is called "frames per second" or "fps".
15 fps is poor.
100 fps is insanely high.
30 fps looks fine.
Studies show that at 60 fps or above, your SUB-CONCIOUS MIND forgets that you are looking at a simulator, and thinks you are flying.

What are you seeing on YOUR computer? Not high enough? OK, lets see how to make it faster!

Go to the SETTINGS menu, SET WEATHER screen. Set the cloud types to HAZE LAYER for max speed, or HIGH CIRRUS or LOW STRATUS for good speed. SCATTERED OR BROKEN OR OVERCAST take a TON of CPU time to run.

Set the visibility to about 5 miles or so. Higher visibility takes MORE CPU to run, because you see more stuff!

Nothing else in the weather screen will affect frame-rate, but clouds and vis affect it a LOT.

OK, close that screen and check your frame-rate now. Better?

Good, but we're not done yet.

Now go to the SETTINGS menu, RENDERING OPTIONS screen. Look at your TEXTURE RESOLUTION. This setting determines how much VIDEO RAM you use. As long as you have plenty of VIDEO RAM, you can set it as high as you want with NO LOSS IN FRAME-RATE, but as soon as you set the texture res to require more VRAM than you have, YOU FRAME-RATE WILL DIE! How do you tell how much VRAM X-Plane uses? Easy. Look at the BOTTOM of the rendering options screen and X-Plane tells you how much VRAM is required at it's current settings. If this number is greater than the RAM on your video card, then you are asking to get slow performance. How much RAM is on your video card? You need to go to your operating system to find out, and of course this will be a bit different for all the various mac, windows, linux OS's out there... use Google as needed if you don't already know how to find the VRAM avail on your particular computer... and once you know the VRAM on your computer, lower the texture res in X-Plane until X-Plane uses about what you have, not too much more.

NOTE! You can in some cases use MORE VRAM than you have, and X-Plane will still run fast, because a lot of the RAM can be "cached away" in the system with no speed penalty if it is not often accessed by the computer... like if it is the texture of desert sand, for example, but no desert sand is visible to you because you are not flying over the desert. But, if you have only 64 meg of VRAM on your vide card, but the texture res is set such that you need 128 meg of VRM, then the computer will constantly be moving RAM on and off the video card (between the video card RAM and the system RAM) to draw each frame of scenery... THIS IS VERY VERY SLOW. Thus, you must set the texture res LOW ENOUGH TO AVOID THIS.

NOTE: After you change the texture res, you must re-start X-Plane for the change to take effect!

NOTE: Just put the tex res on it's lowest setting, exit the sim, re-start it, and note the frame-rate.. then raise the texture detail up one level and repeat... keep doing this until the frame-rate decreases... this is the point where you are using up all your VRAM! Back the texture res off to one level lower than that and restart to fly.

Now look at the screen res in the rendering options screen... it uses up some VRAM, but not much. it uses up some video card CPU, but not too much. Set the res as you see fit... probably 1024x768 on a marginally-powerful computer.

Now look at the all-important "number of object" and "number of roads" settings. These have a HUGE impact on frame-rate. Set these to NONE for speed, AND THEN RESTART X-PLANE FOR THE CHANGES TO TAKE EFFECT.

UN-CHECK all the little boxes to the right of the world/object/road boxes for speed. Most of thee do NOT make too much of a difference, but "Draw textured lights" is very CPU-intensive at night-time.

"Number of cloud puffs" has a HUGE impact on frame-rate when you have scattered, broken, or overcast clouds, but yo already know to avoid those if you are not getting good frame-rate!

The other settings in this window don't really effect speed too much.

So there you have it. Follow all the instructions above and you can get good frame-rate with X-Plane even on a slower, older computer.. as long as you have proper OpenGL drivers installed on it! See the web page of your vide card manufacturer for instructions on that.